Saturday, January 30, 2016

Pratinandan Voyage - 2

Though this travel was alone there was no compromise on planning, as usual Google’s help was sought and booked a hotel http://hotellegarden.com/Legarden/ and got a highly competitive taxi rate from http://www.kumbakonamfriendstrackcalltaxi.com/index.html.

List of the temples( as mentioned in my previous blog) along with the Google map was sent to Senthil (Driver) through Whatsapp for better planning. He was little surprised with the list since it did not have navagraha temples and even called to check with me.

As soon as I landed at the station the driver was available and we started after me completing the routine and heavy breakfast, the list was tweaked by Senthil and I left that to the expert.

The etymology of the Sanskrit word Guru is very interesting. Of the word Guru, GU stands for darkness and RU for dispeller thus arriving at the meaning "dispeller of darkness".
Guru is the one who leads from illusion to illumination by imparting the knowledge of the absolute reality. Since this entire trip is meant for Guru(refer previous blog), hence start at Alangudi was inevitable and has to end at Tapovanam and these instructions were given to Senthil so that he can modify without touching the extremes.

Information that has been provided here are from various sources which was collected before my travel and also during my interaction with respective gurukal of that temple.

During my visit I was able to observe one thing in common and that was all those temples where the navagraha parikara is being associated there was a good turnout of people but could seldom see people in those temples that are rich in history or architecture.Probably that could be the reason for associating parikara with temples.

Alangudi - Arulmigu Abathsagayeswarar Temple
This is my second visit to this place. Lord Shiva is Suyambu here and the Goddess is “Sri Elavarkuzhali Ammai” (Umayammai). This is the place where Lord consumed the deadly poison as emitted during paarkadal hence the name Alangudi and Abathsagayeswarar meaning one who defends from the danger. Sundarar not only received his Gnana upadesam after his darshanam of Dakshinamurthy at this sthalam but also received help from Lord to cross the nearby river which was in full spate. There is also a saying that Lord Ganesha destroyed Gajamuhasuran in this place, so this Vinayagar called as "Kalangamal Kaaththa Vinayagar" which you will find as soon as you enter.

Click here for Photos 

Thirunaraiyur - Naachiyaar Koil
The presiding deity is Lord Srinivasa and the goddess is Vanjulavalli Thayar.This was the 71st temple built by the Chozha king and 1st Vaishnavite temple, previous all were Saivite Temples. Hence, this temple has a lot of resemblance to Saivite temples, in its form and structure. This is the temple where there is no separate sannidhi for Goddess and she is given more prominence and seen together with the Lord in the main sanctum. Lord Brahma will be inside the main sanctum and this is the only place where you will find him along with Lord and his consort.
On all occasions, the first rights are reserved for the Nachiyar. Even the food is first served to the Nachiyar and only then to the Naraiyur Nambi( there is a big story behind the importance, you can get it from various sources).

On a lighter note, Lord was of the view that in Kali Yuga men would have to listen to women (husband to listen to wife’s words). Hence, much before that, he decided that he would first serve as an example and listens to the Goddess here and give importance.

Why a Vaishnav temple in the list of Saiva temples could be a good question to ponder, the reason being in this place the Lord himself acted as Guru and initiated Pancha Samaskaaram( Identity for a true Vaishnavaite) to Thiru Mangai Azhvaar . I will not go into the details of pancha samaskaaram and story of Alwar considering the space, you can anyway google to find more details.

This temple is famous for Kal Garudar(garuda made of stone), a huge and well built Lord Garuda is seen just next to Lord Srinivasa’s Sannidhi. Garuda, stands as the Vahanam to Narayur Nambi whereas Annam(Swan) is the Vahanam of the Goddess.
A strange phenomenon is famous here and happens twice in a year and it is magical where the weight of Garudar increases exponentially. While only 4 people carry Lord Garuda out of his Sannidhi, as the Lord goes out of each Layer or prakaram, he is said to increase in weight, that 8 people, 16 and then 32 people are required to carry Lord Garuda out of the temple. Finally, when the Lord is taken outside the temple, Garuda increases in weight so much that 128 people are required to carry the Lord. On his way back, it is said that Garuda decreases in weight and finally when he is back in the Sannidhi, only 4 people are required to carry him. You can also have glimpse of Garudar, sweating during the procession and handmade fans are in full swing to pacify him.

The relevance here is that during processions, Thayar on swan moves faster and ahead of Garudar who has to follow her due to the miracle of weight increase and this is to fulfill the promise of giving importance to her. Also you will find idols of all 108 Divya Desams at Nachiyar Koil. 

For ages 2 Eagles used to fly above this temple during pooja time and got Moksha(Year 1999) at this temple that took place on a day of Thiruvonam star which is same as that of His. These were buried and a shrine was built under a tree inside the temple.

Must see place during those festivals, please click the below link for a video.

Srivanchiyam
Srivanchiyam is a small village near Nannilam and the presiding deity here is Sri Vanchinathan and his consort is Mangalambika. Considered to be “Mukthisthalam” (salvation) and holier than Varanasi (Kasi).Here the Shivalingam is Swayambu( self manifested) and faces both East and West and hence there are 2 Nandhis and pooja are performed in both directions. The lingam is supposed to have existed even before pralaya and after paralaya turned to the other direction, this lingam is considered to be the world’s oldest swayanmbu lingam. Here the Goddess take 3 roopams during the day, Durgai, Mahalakshmi and Saraswathy in the evening.

On entering the temple you will find big tank on your right called Gupta Gangai, Ganges was once worried that people were taking bath in Ganges to get rid of their sins and all are accumulated by her. As advised by Lord to purify herself she had a dip at this tank and hence this name.
Another significant aspect of this temple is separate shrine for Yama lord of death, as soon as we enter on our left. Similar to Ganges he also felt overwhelmed with all sins and want to shed the same. Pleased by his penance Lord granted him to have separate shrine and importance too. So the process is to have a dip in the tank and visit Yama shrine and then the routine of vinayagar and to Lord and Goddess etc.,

This shrine is more linked with curing ailments where you will find “Vennai Vinayagar” where people smear butter on His smotach to get cured of stomach ailments.
Also we have Yoga Bhairavar where it is believed that if one consumes the powder of vanni leaves used to perform pooja to Bhairavar will remove nervous ailments and also get rid of evils that are directed. In this temple there is no navagraha since this temple came into place before advent of navagrahas,instead you can offer the same to Mahishasuramardhini.

Performing Tharpanam here (ritual to ancestors) on Amavasya is considered very sepecial, Srivanchiyam is one of the 7 pithru kadan nivarthi sthalams. The other six are Kasi, Rameswaram, Thrivenkadu, Gaya, Thiriveni Sangamam and Thilatharpanapuri.

Click the below video link that will provide more insight about this temple, met this Gurukal Rajaraja sivachaiyar and told him that about his interview etc., he was on cloud nine. Was privileged to view abhishegam for all deities performed by a family.


Thirupampuram

“திருப்பங்கள் வேண்டி திருபாம்புரம் வாரீர்”
This temple is 25 kms from Kumbakonam towards Karaikal and the deity is Sri Seshapureeswarar and his consort is Prabarambigai. The King of Serpents Nagarajan, Karkotakan, Bhrama and Agasthyar are said to have worshipped Shiva here. It is said that 3 days a week snake is seen near the God or Goddess. The temple history suggests that snakes are present at this temple and every Sunday, Tuesday and Friday odors of Jasmine and Thazampu are also present.

Though I visited this place on Friday noon ( Ragu Kalam), I was told that normally the snake visit happens early morning. We can a see picture and they have framed the Skin of snake that was left as a mala to lord(close to 9 feet).
There is a fact that people do not die of snake bite at this place and no history of snake bites although a lot of snakes are seen in this area.
Once Lord Vinayagar was offering prayers to Lord Shiva. At that time the serpent in the neck of the Lord thought that he too is worshipped by Vinayagar. Knowing this Lord Shiva got angry and cursed the serpents to lose all their Shakthi. In order to retrieve it Aadiseshan and other serpents came to earth in one Maha Shiva Rathri and offered prayers to Kudanthai Nageshwarar in the morning, Thirunageshwaram at the noon, Thirupamburam Pambureswarar in the evening and Nagoor Nageshwarar at the night and got the blessings of the Lord.

Since the nagas used Banyan tree’s vizhudhu as thread and Agathi flower for the mala, even today the vizhudhu of banyana tree will not touch the ground and agathi flower will not bloom in this place. Sivarathri in the month of Masi is famous due to the fact that these nagas got their moksham on that day. In this temple too you will not find navagrahas, the belief is that the main deity is more powerful. New and Full moon Sunday’s are very special, also Tuesday and Friday Raghu kalam.

You can also find Ashta Maha Nagam sannidhi, by offering prayers here it is believed that naga dosha due to killing of snake or dismantling the Puthu during house construction is removed. The prayer could be as simple as lighting ghee lamp.

With that ended by forenoon session, had a hefty typical Kumbakonam lunch and few hours of rest. Will come back soon with my evening session. 

3 comments:

  1. I really enjoyed reading the detailed explanation of all the temples. Esp Thirunaraiyur( where husband should listen to wife :)) And I thought Guptai Ganga was only for Ganges to take a dip and cleanse her sins. But that also we haven't left alone!!
    Waiting for the evening part of the temple visit:)

    ReplyDelete
  2. I really enjoyed reading the detailed explanation of all the temples. Esp Thirunaraiyur( where husband should listen to wife :)) And I thought Guptai Ganga was only for Ganges to take a dip and cleanse her sins. But that also we haven't left alone!!
    Waiting for the evening part of the temple visit:)

    ReplyDelete