Though this travel was alone there was no compromise on
planning, as usual Google’s help was sought and booked a hotel http://hotellegarden.com/Legarden/
and got a highly competitive taxi rate from http://www.kumbakonamfriendstrackcalltaxi.com/index.html.
List of the temples( as mentioned in my previous blog) along with the Google map was sent to Senthil (Driver) through Whatsapp for better planning. He was little surprised with the list since it did not have navagraha temples and even called to check with me.
List of the temples( as mentioned in my previous blog) along with the Google map was sent to Senthil (Driver) through Whatsapp for better planning. He was little surprised with the list since it did not have navagraha temples and even called to check with me.
As soon as I landed at the station the driver was available
and we started after me completing the routine and heavy breakfast, the list was
tweaked by Senthil and I left that to the expert.
The etymology of the Sanskrit word Guru is very
interesting. Of the word Guru, GU stands for darkness and RU for dispeller thus arriving at the meaning "dispeller of darkness".
Guru is
the one who leads from illusion to illumination by imparting the knowledge of
the absolute reality. Since this entire trip is meant for Guru(refer previous blog), hence start at Alangudi was
inevitable and has to end at Tapovanam and these instructions were given to
Senthil so that he can modify without touching the extremes.
Information that has been provided here are from various
sources which was collected before my travel and also during my interaction
with respective gurukal of that temple.
During my visit I was able to observe one thing in common and that was all those temples
where the navagraha parikara is being associated there was a good turnout of people but could
seldom see people in those temples that are rich in history or architecture.Probably that could be the reason for associating parikara with
temples.
Alangudi - Arulmigu Abathsagayeswarar Temple
This is my second visit to this place. Lord Shiva is
Suyambu here and the Goddess is “Sri Elavarkuzhali Ammai” (Umayammai). This is
the place where Lord consumed the deadly poison as emitted during paarkadal
hence the name Alangudi and Abathsagayeswarar meaning one who defends from the
danger. Sundarar not only received his Gnana upadesam after his darshanam of
Dakshinamurthy at this sthalam but also received help from Lord to cross the
nearby river which was in full spate. There is also
a saying that Lord Ganesha destroyed Gajamuhasuran in this place, so this
Vinayagar called as "Kalangamal Kaaththa Vinayagar" which you will
find as soon as you enter.
Click here for Photos
Click here for Photos
Thirunaraiyur - Naachiyaar Koil
The presiding deity is Lord Srinivasa and the goddess
is Vanjulavalli Thayar.This was the 71st temple built by the Chozha king and
1st Vaishnavite temple, previous all were Saivite Temples. Hence, this temple
has a lot of resemblance to Saivite temples, in its form and structure. This is
the temple where there is no separate sannidhi for Goddess and she is given
more prominence and seen together with the Lord in the main sanctum. Lord
Brahma will be inside the main sanctum and this is the only place where you
will find him along with Lord and his consort.
On all occasions, the first rights are reserved for
the Nachiyar. Even the food is first served to the Nachiyar and only then to
the Naraiyur Nambi( there is a big story behind the importance, you can get it from various sources).
On a lighter note, Lord was of the view that in
Kali Yuga men would have to listen to women (husband to listen to wife’s
words). Hence, much before that, he decided that he would first serve as an
example and listens to the Goddess here and give importance.
Why a Vaishnav temple in the list of
Saiva temples could be a good question to ponder, the reason being in this place the Lord himself acted as Guru and
initiated Pancha Samaskaaram( Identity for a true Vaishnavaite) to Thiru Mangai
Azhvaar . I will not go into the details of pancha samaskaaram and story
of Alwar considering the space, you can anyway google to find more details.
This temple is famous for Kal Garudar(garuda made of stone), a huge and well built Lord Garuda is seen just next to Lord Srinivasa’s Sannidhi. Garuda, stands as the Vahanam to Narayur Nambi whereas Annam(Swan) is the Vahanam of the Goddess.
A strange phenomenon is famous here and happens twice
in a year and it is magical where the weight of Garudar increases exponentially. While
only 4 people carry Lord Garuda out of his Sannidhi, as the Lord goes out of
each Layer or prakaram, he is said to increase in weight, that 8 people, 16 and
then 32 people are required to carry Lord Garuda out of the temple. Finally,
when the Lord is taken outside the temple, Garuda increases in weight so much
that 128 people are required to carry the Lord. On
his way back, it is said that Garuda decreases in weight and finally when he is
back in the Sannidhi, only 4 people are required to carry him. You can
also have glimpse of Garudar, sweating during the procession and handmade fans
are in full swing to pacify him.
The relevance here is that during processions, Thayar
on swan moves faster and ahead of Garudar who has to follow her due to the miracle of weight increase and this is to
fulfill the promise of giving importance to her. Also you will find idols of all 108 Divya Desams at Nachiyar Koil.
For ages 2 Eagles used to fly above this temple during pooja time and got Moksha(Year 1999) at this temple that took place on a day of Thiruvonam star which is same as that of His. These were buried and a shrine was built under a tree inside the temple.
Must see place during those festivals, please click the below link for a video.
Srivanchiyam
Srivanchiyam is a small village near
Nannilam and the presiding deity here is Sri Vanchinathan and his consort is
Mangalambika. Considered to be “Mukthisthalam” (salvation) and holier than
Varanasi (Kasi).Here the
Shivalingam is Swayambu( self manifested) and faces both East and West and
hence there are 2 Nandhis and pooja are performed in both directions. The
lingam is supposed to have existed even before pralaya and after paralaya
turned to the other direction, this lingam is considered to be the world’s oldest
swayanmbu lingam. Here the Goddess take 3 roopams during the day, Durgai, Mahalakshmi
and Saraswathy in the evening.
On entering the temple you will
find big tank on your right called Gupta Gangai, Ganges was once worried that
people were taking bath in Ganges to get rid of their sins and all are
accumulated by her. As advised by Lord to purify herself she had a dip at this
tank and hence this name.
Another significant aspect of this temple is separate
shrine for Yama lord of death, as soon as we enter on our left. Similar to
Ganges he also felt overwhelmed with all sins and want to shed the same.
Pleased by his penance Lord granted him to have separate shrine and importance
too. So the process is to have a dip in the tank and visit Yama shrine and then
the routine of vinayagar and to Lord and Goddess etc.,
This shrine is more linked with curing ailments where you will find “Vennai Vinayagar” where people smear butter on His smotach to get cured of stomach ailments.
Performing Tharpanam here (ritual to ancestors) on Amavasya is considered very sepecial, Srivanchiyam is one of the 7 pithru kadan nivarthi sthalams. The other six are Kasi, Rameswaram, Thrivenkadu, Gaya, Thiriveni Sangamam and Thilatharpanapuri.
Click the below video link that will provide more insight about this temple, met this Gurukal Rajaraja sivachaiyar and told him that about his interview etc., he was on cloud nine. Was privileged to view abhishegam for all deities performed by a family.
Thirupampuram
“திருப்பங்கள் வேண்டி திருபாம்புரம் வாரீர்”
This temple is 25 kms from
Kumbakonam towards Karaikal and the deity is Sri Seshapureeswarar and his
consort is Prabarambigai. The King of Serpents Nagarajan, Karkotakan, Bhrama and
Agasthyar are said to have worshipped Shiva here. It is
said that 3 days a week snake is seen near the God or Goddess. The
temple history suggests that snakes are present at this temple and
every Sunday, Tuesday and Friday odors of Jasmine and
Thazampu are also present.
Though I visited this place on Friday noon ( Ragu Kalam), I was told that normally the snake visit happens early morning. We can a see picture and they have framed the Skin of snake that was left as a mala to lord(close to 9 feet).
There is a fact that people do not die of snake bite at this place and no history of snake bites although a lot of snakes are seen in this area.
Once Lord Vinayagar was
offering prayers to Lord Shiva. At that time the serpent in the neck of the Lord
thought that he too is worshipped by Vinayagar.
Knowing this Lord Shiva got angry and cursed the serpents to lose all their
Shakthi. In order to retrieve it Aadiseshan and
other serpents came to earth in one Maha Shiva Rathri and offered prayers to
Kudanthai Nageshwarar in the morning, Thirunageshwaram at the noon,
Thirupamburam Pambureswarar in the evening and Nagoor Nageshwarar at the night
and got the blessings of the Lord.
Since the nagas used Banyan tree’s
vizhudhu as thread and Agathi flower for the mala, even today the vizhudhu of
banyana tree will not touch the ground and agathi flower will not bloom in this
place. Sivarathri in the month of Masi is famous due to the fact that these
nagas got their moksham on that day. In this temple too you will not find
navagrahas, the belief is that the main deity is more
powerful. New and
Full moon Sunday’s are very special, also Tuesday and Friday Raghu kalam.
You can also find Ashta Maha Nagam sannidhi, by offering prayers here it is believed that naga dosha due to killing of snake or dismantling the Puthu during house construction is removed. The prayer could be as simple as lighting ghee lamp.
With that ended by forenoon session, had a hefty typical Kumbakonam lunch and few hours of rest. Will come back soon with my evening session.
